Travel

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2021: A Look Back

Another pandemic year, sigh. 2021 was, as expected, better than 2020. We were better at assessing and managing COVID risk, and we got out and about more – even traveling a few times. I’m cautiously optimistic that 2022 will bring more improvement, maybe gradual, but I have hope.

January got off to a rocky start, as we all know. I was downtown on January 6 – not close to the Capitol, fortunately; I was at my office on K Street, taking a deposition – but we didn’t know what was going on or what parts of the city might be dangerous, and it was a white-knuckled drive through Georgetown before I crossed the river into Virginia and breathed a sigh of relief. I stayed home the rest of the month, with great relief at having the ability to do so. A blanket of snow and a host of winter visitors to my bird feeders brought much-needed peace.

In February we had more snow, but it warmed up toward the end of the month and we cautiously poked our heads out of our den. After a year of almost complete solitude, we began to explore ways to manage COVID risk and get more socialization in. My law school bestie, Carly, drove her kids out to the exurbs for a play date one warm day, and we hit up a new-to-us playground. It was a small thing, but it felt monumental. Also a small thing that turned out to be monumental: at the end of the month I received an email from one of my law firm colleagues, noting that a client of his – a west coast-based tech company – was looking for an addition to their legal department. Dream job! I threw caution to the wind and my hat in the ring.

I spent most of March working on my application – and then on preparing for multiple rounds of interviews – to the tech company. Recently, relating the experience to an acquaintance, I reflected that I’ve never poured so much time or effort into getting a job before. I spent hours almost every March evening, and over multiple weekends, on the project. It didn’t leave much time for adventuring, but we did manage to scoot out for a hike toward the end of the month, to explore a little reservoir in Ashburn, Virginia, where I was hoping to paddle once the weather warmed up. We’d first visited in January, when the rushes in the shallows were crusted with ice, but the trail around the lake was beautiful – a winter wonderland – and I made plans to return again and again.

Here comes the sun! All that work in March paid off, because the first Friday of April brought the news that I landed the dream job! April was another busy month as I started the onboarding process with my soon-to-be new employer, told my firm I was leaving, and worked round the clock to transition my cases to other attorneys. But again, we made time for fun – spring arrived in earnest with the return of warm, sunny days, and our traditional bluebell hike. For the past couple of years, we’ve bluebell-spotted at Manassas National Battlefield Park. We hit the peak just right in 2021!

May was a roller coaster. I started the month with a week of “funemployment” – that delightful period between one job and another. The week coincided with the beginning of really warm weather, so I had big paddleboarding plans (and I did make it out twice), but a death in the family sent me up to New York twice – first with Nugget in tow, to say goodbye to a cherished person, and then a week later for the funeral. Water always helps, so I paddled a lot in May. At the end of the month, a hot weekend drew the kids and me to the beach with my dear friend Carly and her family, and we took turns duffing the kids in the Chesapeake Bay. Meanwhile, amongst all of the upheaval, I started my new job and discovered right away that it was exactly the move I needed to make.

June was wonderful. Looking back, it feels like I spent almost the entire month outside (although I know that can’t possibly be true). Between paddleboarding, the start of our family kayaking season, a new mountain bike, and cheering for Nugget at his weekly tee-ball games, it does seem like I never went indoors. As a die-hard summer fan, this is about right for me.

Joy bookended July. We rang in the month camping on Chincoteague over Independence Day weekend (my favorite holiday). Saw the famous wild horses three times, toasted marshmallows over our own campfire, and charged into the surf at Assateague Island National Seashore – perfect. Most of the month was spent getting used to my new job (and to feeling truly happy as a lawyer for the first time EVER), and playing outside whenever I got the chance – taking my paddleboard to Beaverdam Reservoir as much as possible, mountain biking with Nugget, and hiking and kayaking with Steve and both kids every weekend day. At the end of the month, we drove up to New York State for my cousin Jocelyn’s wedding celebration – it was postponed by a year because of the pandemic, but worth the wait. Both kids were in the wedding, along with Jocelyn’s niece and nephew. It was seriously cute.

August brought adventure! First, at the end of July, Steve and I fulfilled a long-cherished wish and bought touring kayaks (as a fifteenth anniversary gift to each other, two weeks before our sixteenth anniversary – the pandemic had interfered with our plans for almost a year). My parents wanted the kids to themselves for a week, so we took the kayaks off for a week of paddling in the Adirondacks; we hit up Schroon Lake, Lake Placid, Lake Flower, Upper St. Regis Lake, and Spitfire Lake. We also found time to hike almost every day, and knocked off our fifth Adirondack high peak. The rest of the month was quieter, at home, but the hot Virginia sun was comforting and life-affirming to this summer-loving girl.

The start of September brought mixed feelings. The kids were back at school, which is conflicting for me. On the one hand, it’s easier to work without them around (self-evident truths…). On the other hand, I always worry about their safety when I send them out into the world. It’s hard being a parent in 2021. We found pockets of joy, though. Time on our favorite trails – always restoring. And at the end of the month, I made my way back to a start line – this time with my bike, not my running shoes. Twenty miles of car-free biking in D.C. was a treat (despite a flat tire midway through the ride).

October took us all the way across the country! I had a weeklong business trip to my company’s headquarters in Seattle, and since it happened to coincide with my birthday, Steve and the kids accompanied me so I wouldn’t have to ring in the year alone. We made it fun: bookended the workweek with one weekend of Seattle tourist treats (including a ride to the top of the Space Needle!), and one weekend of hiking and beachcombing at Olympic National Park. Back at home, we found the BEST trick-or-treating street in our neighborhood, and the kids both chose to wear costumes they already owned (Peanut was a veterinarian, and Nugget was a baseball player), so I didn’t have to spend a dime on equipping them for Halloween. A treat indeed!

November saw us on the go again, traveling to Colorado to spend Thanksgiving with my brother and sister-in-law. Uncle Dan loves playing tour guide, and we were treated to the very best highlights of western Colorado (including Uncle Dan’s Dinosaur Tour, parts one, two, and three) and Utah. Three national parks, one national monument, an adorable Alpine adventure town, pizza at a famous spot in Fruita, lots of doggy petting, Thanksgiving with our people – lots of stories to come, but it was all wonderful.

Bringing us to December. Jingle and sparkle, ahoy. Although our celebrations have been curtailed this year – a nod to what feels like a never-ending pandemic – we’ve found ways to make magic. I went back to Seattle at the beginning of the month (alone this time) for work, and got to see Pike Place in its Christmas finery. Back at home, we chose and decorated our tree, walked our old stomping grounds at Mount Vernon and Old Town Alexandria, and celebrated the fact that as of early December, all four of us are finally fully vaxxed against COVID (and Steve and I are now boosted, as of just this week). Yay, science! And yay us, for making it through another pandemic year and finding SO MUCH JOY along the way.

Here’s to an even better 2022, for all of us!

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A Very Virginia Christmas

We’ve trimmed our holiday traditions down considerably in recent years – a nod to COVID-induced realities, sadly, but also a reflection of the current (overwhelmed) state of life. But there are a few traditions in the run-up to Christmas that are just non-negotiable; I’m not willing to give them up, and I will move heaven and earth to make them happen. A visit to Aladdin, the Mount Vernon Christmas camel, is one of them (although Aladdin is around until Twelfth Night, and it’s acceptable to visit him after Christmas, if necessary) and a walk through Old Town, our former neighborhood, to admire the decorations. This year, we combined the two into one thoroughly Alexandrian day.

Starting with Mount Vernon. It was a grey day – not too cold, but damp – and a walk felt good. By the way, if you’re thinking the coloration of the Mansion looks different, it is. The property has gone back to the traditional buff color, removing the historically-inaccurate crisp white exterior. This sandy hue is what it actually looked like in Washington’s day.

There he is! It’s tradition for Mount Vernon to host a camel for Christmas, because Washington used to procure one as a holiday treat for his stepchildren and grandchildren. Aladdin has been a regular visitor for the last fourteen Christmases now and we’ve visited him almost every year, including his first year as the Christmas Camel – when he was just a baby.

He’s so stinking cute. I cannot.

Obviously, Aladdin isn’t the only animal on property. After paying our respects to him, we wandered off in search of other friends. I have never seen so many sheep here before. There must have been twenty of them! Seriously. Where did they all come from?

We walked around the rest of the outdoor attractions, too. Peanut loved stopping by each of the outbuildings to read the explanatory placard – there was much lecturing when Nugget and I failed to keep pace; I had sock problems, and to be honest, we were more interested in the garden.

It might be the fact that I had spent several days reading Nigel Slater’s poetic ode to winter, The Christmas Chronicles, but I was enchanted by the bare architecture of the kitchen garden in winter.

And I’m always inspired by the espaliered fruit trees. I have delusions of gardening grandeur (when we buy the forever house!) involving lots of fruit trees. Sometimes my dreams involve a glorious tangle of gnarled apple trees and a blackberry bramble, but other times I picture espaliered fruit. I guess it’ll have to wait for the as-yet-fuzzy forever house and garden to take shape, before I’ll really know.

Red, green, and purple. Christmas!

After wandering almost the whole Mount Vernon property (we missed the upper flower garden, but Peanut was done with Nugget and me and our Monty Don delusions) we headed to our old stomping ground – Old Town Alexandria.

The residents of Old Town go all in on Christmas decorations, but because it’s such a historic neighborhood, by tacit agreement they do it in a very traditional, understated way. Lots of swags of fresh greenery, tartan ribbons, and fresh and dried fruit – no inflatables or loud colored lights. (Which have their place, but would look alarming on these pre-Revolutionary streets, let’s be honest.)

No baby yet. Check back in a few weeks. (Pssst – this creche is in front of St. Mary’s Basilica, which we just learned was the very first Catholic church in Virginia. Yay, history!)

Wreaths of Old Town, 2021, here we come. I think this door – one of the first we walked past – might have been my favorite.

But I loved this one, too – simple, but gorgeously effective.

Another favorite – a wreath made entirely of oyster shells is a stunning nod to coastal Virginia. Also, I love a wooden door! Over the years, I’ve gotten fonder of the natural wood look. This made me think of the entrance to the Nantucket pub that features in the first few chapters of Moby Dick, where Ishmael and Queequeg meet.

Another favorite – understated, but perfect with the exposed brick and gold stars.

No visit to Old Town is complete without walking by the Spite House. This tiny row house is barely more than six feet in width.

More dried fruit! I love these traditional decorations.

Partway through our walk, we met up with friends – my law school BFF, her husband, and their two kids. In an instant, my kids switched from complaining about the forced march past very grownup door decor, to wild exhilaration at seeing their friends. Running, jumping, screeching and cackling ensued.

We all got a laugh when my friend’s husband leaned down to his son and urgently demanded, “Where are your parents?“

We walked, talked, snapped pictures and berated wild children for almost two hours – until the sun was gone, the lights were twinkling, and carolers were singing their way down King Street. As other traditions have dropped off one by one (there was no Christmas in Little Washington this year, no waterskiing Santa on the Potomac, no Scottish Walk, and no holiday trains at the National Botanic Gardens in D.C.) I’ve hung onto this one, which is simple, and free, but brings outsized holiday cheer.

What is your favorite holiday tradition?

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Ornamentation, 2021 Edition

Over the years, my tree has gone from perfectly curated (and totally impersonal) when Steve and I were first married, to a hodgepodge of kid-produced ornaments, nods to favorite local spots (there’s a whole Mount Vernon collection on there) and ornaments picked up on our travels. The newlywed me would have been horrified, but I prefer it this way. We’ve made a tradition out of buying at least one ornament every time we travel – and picking one up from each national park we visit, whether far afield or close to home – and it turned out we were on the go rather a lot in 2021, so there are quite a few new additions on the tree this year.

I bought this adorable wood slice ornament at a boutique on the main drag in Lake Placid this summer. I like it because the hikers are approximately the same height proportions as Steve and me (heh) and because it’s true: life really is better on a hike in the Adirondacks.

Not purchased in Lake Placid, but ordered from Etsy in the fall – I will always have nods to my favorite state park on my tree. (Also note the Cornell ornament photobombing in the picture on the right! That’s one of three Big Red baubles I have on my tree.) I consider myself a Virginian to the core, but New York has its place in my holiday decorations.

As second homes go, Washington State is newer than NYS, but I’m starting to feel awfully attached to Seattle after traveling there twice in less than three months this year. My employer is headquartered there and I’ve been flying past Mount Rainier a lot. In October, Steve and the kids accompanied me and we spent a weekend at Olympic National Park. The park store actually had no ornaments (how?!) so I ordered this memento from an Etsy seller when I got home.

Our Thanksgiving travels took us to three legacy national parks (Arches, Canyonlands, and Black Canyon of the Gunnison) and a national monument (Colorado), and I gleefully added to my ornament stash at each one; my brother and sister-in-law were as committed as I was to tracking down the best ornaments in each park store.

It’s such a delight to hang travel souvenirs on my tree every year and reminisce about past adventures. 2021 was a good one for that, as it turns out. (And I think I more than doubled my national parks ornament collection – I already had Shenandoah, of course, and Joshua Tree and Channel Islands.) Wonder where 2021 will take us, and if I’ll be adding any more parks to the stash? I’ve got my eye on Great Smoky Mountains.

Have you added any meaningful new decorations to your stash this year?

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Shenandoah 2021: Mary’s Rock

On our last morning in Shenandoah, we awoke to bright sunshine and bluebird skies – finally! After a hearty breakfast at Skylands, we shoved off for home, but with one stop on the way: Mary’s Rock, redemption time.

We’d attempted Mary’s Rock before; in fall of 2016, on our first visit to the park, we’d picked it out as a reach hike to do with two babies in backpacks. The hike starts with a climb up first to the intersection with the Appalachian Trail, and then to a ridgeline, which you follow to the summit. We could have finished the hike, I think, but for a particularly cold weather day. The kids cried and fussed all the way up to the ridgeline, then went into baby shutdown mode and fell asleep. Reluctantly, we decided to turn back rather than subject them to brisk winds at the summit. It was the right call, but we had been itching to try again – and finish this time – ever since. With two experienced little hikers and a beautiful day, Labor Day 2021 was go time.

Although our ultimate goal was the summit, there was plenty to enjoy on the way up.

Like a new friend. See the little one up there?

We stood and watched while a mother and two fawns strolled across the trail, casual as you please. Magic!

Intersection with the famous Appalachian Trail! The kids were proud that they had feet on the AT.

Not long after bidding goodbye to our new white-tailed deer friends, we had another surprise treat in store: this absolutely breathtaking sunlight filtering in rays to light up the trail.

Of course photos don’t even come close to doing it justice. It really was like walking through a hall of lights.

A short ridge walk, and we finally made it – the summit of Mary’s Rock!

Triumphant family! It took us almost five years to get here, but we made it.

Set about enjoying those summit views. The payoff was well worth the climb.

I was so proud of both kids – they had so much fun and really expanded their hiking skills over our weekend in Shenandoah. They pushed themselves past their comfort zones and were rewarded, not only with spectacular views, but also with the knowledge that they could do hard things.

That concludes our whirlwind tour of Shenandoah – but never fear, travel recaps continue! I’ll have some holiday and New Year’s content for you for the next few weeks, but in 2022 we’ll head all the way across the country together.

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Shenandoah 2021: Stony Man Mountain

After climbing Hawksbill in the morning, the afternoon was reserved for Stony Man Mountain – the second highest peak in the park. This was a repeat hike for us; we’d brought my parents up here over Thanksgiving weekend in 2017 (or 2018? I think it was 2017) – so we knew this would be an approachable one. The last time we’d climbed Stony Man, both kids were in backpacks and Steve was under the weather. Both feeling good, and with all family feet on the trail, we were ready to go.

Stony Man trailhead. Hello, old friend!

The Stony Man trail is one of the softest, most groomed trails in a park full of soft, groomed trails. After our summer of Adirondack hiking, it felt like the absolute lap of luxury.

Approaching the summit… that was fast!

And views – check! It was almost as grey and misty as the morning on Hawksbill, but still so beautiful. Shenandoah is my home park, and I love every inch of it, in all of its moods.

Next week: one final hike to cap off the weekend, and it’s a good one – redemption time.

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Shenandoah 2021: Hawksbill Mountain

Hawksbill Mountain is Shenandoah’s highest point, but not its most difficult hike. We planned to combine it with a few other hikes for an active but doable-for-kids day. The morning dawned cloudy and misty, so the views from the summit weren’t going to be the best ever, but we figured it would still be beautiful (spoiler: it was). Off we go through the woods…

The kids were hoping for more scrambles (like on the accidental portion of our Bearfence hike) but Steve and I were on our game this time. Scramble up this tiny rock, kids.

After what felt like a very short walk, we were approaching the summit of Hawksbill! That went fast.

Let’s go get that summit, team!

Arrived at the top of Shenandoah – views for days, even with the cloud cover and mist.

I’d love to come up here on a sunny, clear day to see how the view changes – but this misty, magical morning at the highest point in Shenandoah was plenty beautiful.

Next week: from the highest summit in Shenandoah to… the second highest summit in Shenandoah.

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Shenandoah 2021: Story of the Forest Trail

Another old favorite – we almost never miss the Story of the Forest trail, no matter how quick the visit to Shenandoah. This time, we stopped by the Big Meadows visitor center so the kiddos could take their Junior Ranger oath of office, then immediately struck off for one of our favorite easy, kid-friendly hikes in the park.

The trail dips downhill a ways, then meanders over gently rolling hills – nothing difficult about it at all – for a little under two miles. It’s a lovely hike for kids, since there are plenty of natural elements to keep them engaged (including a Poohsticks bridge) and you can make it as long or as short as you like.

It’s a classic wooded trail; I think quite a few park visitors skip Story of the Forest because it doesn’t boast sweeping vistas (like Hawksbill) or strenuous scrambles (like Old Rag) or roaring waterfalls (like Dark Hollow) – just a peaceful path through a verdant forest. But there’s plenty to see if you drop your eyes to the forest floor itself – like bright green eruptions of ferns, my favorite.

And forest friends, like a sweet doe and her speckled fawns. All together now: awwwwww.

I just love their quiet grace.

Spotted just off the trail: an air quality monitoring station. Unbeknownst to many park visitors, Shenandoah struggles with air quality problems thanks to surrounding industry. Air quality monitoring stations in the park perform important work to ensure that our wild space stays healthy for us all.

Just a beautiful, peaceful walk in the woods – can’t top that.

Next week: we climb to the highest point in the park.

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Shenandoah 2021: Big Meadows

It would be hard for me to pick a favorite spot in Shenandoah National Park – I love every inch of the place. But if pressed, I might say that I love Big Meadows just a tiny bit more than the rest – maybe. (Then again, maybe not. It would be a wrench to have to choose; I’m glad I actually don’t.) I don’t think we ever come to Shenandoah without at least a quick pause at Big Meadows, and ideally, a nice leg-stretching hike.

Off we go!

I was thinking a lot of my grandmother, who had a great fondness for meadows. She would have so loved the expansive views and the lavish goldenrod flowers.

Bees buzzing everywhere! Go, little pollinators, go!

Don’t mind me, I’m just over here playing with my macro settings. #photographynerd

The sun was baking down and the meadow was blisteringly hot. (We were glad to have our hats and approximately a gallon each of sunscreen.)

Such a gorgeous afternoon hike – there’s no end to the little herd paths and spurs branching out every which way in Big Meadows, and there’s always more to see, whether you stretch up and gaze at the mountains off in the distance or crouch down to inspect a bee or a wildflower at close range. I just love it.

Next week: Another old favorite, and some new friends.

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Shenandoah 2021: Bearfence Mountain

Apparently, spending Labor Day weekend in Shenandoah is our thing – at least, for the last two years it has been. In 2020, we drove out for the day, but in 2021 we decided to make a weekend of it; it was so much fun that I can absolutely see it becoming a tradition. We bunked up at Skylands, a park concessions facility right in the central district of the park, surrounded by some of the best hikes for miles – perfect location. After rolling in on Friday afternoon and spending the first night exploring our surroundings, we woke up on Saturday morning ready to go.

Our first hike – of about seven we planned – was Bearfence Mountain. Although we’ve been to Shenandoah quite a few times before, we’d never hit this one before. The trail included a segment of the famed Appalachian Trail! So cool.

In researching our hikes for the weekend, I planned a mix of repeats and new ground, and I also targeted hikes that – while they may include a more “advanced” route, had an alternate route that would be suitable for the kiddos. Steve downloaded the maps into his phone, and following his directions we quickly came up against – scrambles. They started out relatively easy, but they got intense quickly.

The kids did a fabulous job following directions and climbing safely, but I started to get more and more anxious as the scrambles got more intense.

Eventually, we came up against this monster – the route to the summit. You can’t see from this picture, but there’s a sheer dropoff of a few dozen feet, at least. Although the kids had been game, I just wasn’t comfortable with them scaling this beast. Down we went.

After a huddle, we realized what had gone wrong – the map downloaded was the “more advanced” route to the summit, and while the kids had done wonderfully well with it (and wanted to continue) it was never the route I’d intended them to take. We carefully picked our way down the scrambles to the spot where the trail had split off, then we started to climb again, this time up the more “family friendly” route.

Much better.

Eventually, our circuitous route finally deposited us at our goal – the summit! Views for miles.

These boots are made for walkin’.

It was a bit more roundabout of a hike than we’d intended – but that’s fine. More time in the woods is always good, right? It is in my book.

Next week: an old favorite hike, with summer colors.

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ADK 2021: Biking and Coasting at Mt. Van Hoevenberg

After a week of working, adventuring, and eating our way around Lake Placid, we woke up on Saturday morning ready to head back to the anklebiters – but we had one more adventure planned on the way home: a stop at Mt. Van Hoevenberg for mountain biking (me), walking (Steve), and hopefully riding the mountain coaster (both).

Mt. Van Hoevenberg is right outside of Lake Placid, and housed the sliding sports at the 1932 and 1980 Olympic Winter Games. I’d been wanting to check it out for ages. The complex now boasts a network of trails for cross-country skiing (in winter) and mountain biking (in summer); the trailhead for Mt. Van Hoevenberg itself (part of the LP 9’er hiking challenge); a bobsled experience; and a mountain coaster. On my agenda: exploring the trails via my mountain bike, and – hopefully – riding the mountain coaster. I’d tried to buy advance tickets earlier in the week, but they were sold out. Still, I thought there was no harm in at least asking if there was a chance, and the desk attendant explained that they under-sell advance spots and reserve room for walk-ins depending on track conditions. She was expecting the track report in about half an hour, if we could wait? We could. Steve and I wandered around the facility, checking out the old bobsled and other Olympic paraphernalia, until we got the good news – track conditions looked good, and there were two spaces for us on the mountain coaster. Hurray!

But first things first! Adventure Annie was raring to hit the trails.

One of the complex employees, seeing me wheeling my mountain bike in the direction of the trail network, helpfully pointed out the sites. “If you’re not back by sunset, we’ll send out a search party,” he told me gravely, “and you should know that the search party is a big black bear.” I laughed and assured him I’d only be an hour, as I now had mountain coaster (!!!) tickets.

To the trails! This bike is way too clean.

This is the face of someone who has been enjoying some truly epic single track:

After tooling around looking for the best trails, I barely felt like I was getting my wheels under me when it was time to head back to the main facility and meet up with Steve for the mountain coaster ride. I was bummed that my mountain biking had flown by so quickly, but seriously stoked for the next adrenaline rush.

I quickly locked Adventure Annie back on the car, then met up with Steve by the main lodge.

We checked out the scenery – including the historic bobsled track; so cool! – while we waited for our turn on the mountain coaster.

Ready to fly!

Each rider had his or her own car, styled like an Olympic bobsled. Steve was Team Canada, and I was Team Austria. Each repping (part of) our own family heritage!

Snapped one last picture on the initial incline, then tucked my phone away so it didn’t fly out of my hands on the descent. What a ride! It was totally exhilarating, and I could have flown around the mountain all day – but we had to get back to Albany and the kiddos. As we headed for the car, grinning broadly, we had one last surprise – I heard my name shouted, and turned around to see our mutual friend Jeff and his daughter Lucy waiting in line for the mountain coaster. Small world! We chatted to Jeff for a few minutes, then left them to enjoy their Adirondack weekend and headed back to our own rugrats – refreshed and pleasantly exhausted from a week of adventuring.

This ends Adirondack recaps (for now; we’ll always be back!) but not travel recaps. Next week I’ve got the first of a series of posts to share with you about Shenandoah National Park. Stay tuned!