After our trip back in time to see dinosaur eggs and a bone imprint, the kids were clamoring for some non-educational fun. Luckily, Uncle Dan had another treat in store – off-roading! Vehicle-loving Nugget was hype for this, but we were all excited. And it was Steve’s birthday! So what better way to celebrate than by driving a RZR through the desert?
Our destination was a natural recreation area called Rabbit Valley. (Spoiler: I did not see any rabbits.) We met up with Danielle’s parents, who brought their own RZR, and got ready to hit the trail. There were six available seats and eight people, so Danielle and her mom set off on a walk in the desert while the rest of us divided up between the two vehicles – Dan, Nugget and I rode with Grampa Don (Danielle’s dad), while Steve drove Peanut in Dan and Danielle’s RZR. Here we go!
I suspect that Don could really open it up and drive wild in this thing, and that he was dialing it back for us. It still felt pretty extreme!
Yes, Nugget is wearing his Pokemon pajamas. Parenting is all about picking your battles.
When I wasn’t wondering if we were going to roll over (we didn’t) I was taking in the scenery along the trail. Otherworldly! Finally, we came to what Dan described as a “pretty overlook.”
I mean. Yes, pretty. Pretty spectacular.
Down in the gorge, the Colorado River was sparkling in the desert sun.
I could have stayed all day, drinking in these views! We did stick around for awhile, but eventually the kids got itchy to be on the move again and we were back in the RZRs. We shuffled the party around a little – Nugget went with Steve and they drove in front so they weren’t literally choking on our trail dust, and Peanut joined me, Uncle Dan, and Grampa Don. What a cool experience, and definitely something we don’t get to do every day.
Next week: our adrenaline interlude is over and we are back to dinosaur hunting.
One of my brother’s very favorite things to do is play tour guide and show visitors around the places he calls home. Since moving to western Colorado, he has leaned into the dinosaur territory in a big way, and when we decided to visit for Thanksgiving he promised to take us all on his ultimate tour of all his favorite fossil spots.
Part I of Uncle Dan’s Dinosaur Tour started in a non-descript pull-off from a back road. No signs, no trail markers – just desert. Dan and Danielle love to poke around and “find stuff” and on one weekend’s ramble they came across a big boulder studded with circular shapes that the local dinosaur club (society?) confirmed were eggs. It was tucked away, deep in the canyon, but Dan and Danielle led us there expertly.
Unmistakably eggs of some sort! Looks like they hatched – hopefully – so… dinosaur babies! Too cute.
It was so cool to not only be able to get close to these egg fossils, but to actually touch them and see how they were preserved in nature – rather than in a museum case. Don’t get me wrong, I love a good natural history museum, but this was just a totally different, very unusual experience.
We scuttled downhill and back to the car, and drove about ten minutes to the next stop – another non-descript pull-off. This time, there was no short hike – just a big natural stone pillar right by the road, with this:
Friends, that is a bone imprint. It looked like something out of The Flintstones. Too big for Pebbles to wear as a hair bow, sadly.
This was just the beginning! Uncle Dan had more dinosaur fun in store, but first an off-roading interlude – next week.
Another day in Olympic National Park… another waterfall! You know how it is. 😉
While our main waterfall priority was Sol Duc Falls, we agreed that if time allowed we also wanted to check out Marymere Falls, which was supposed to be spectacular and – bonus – was reached by a trail that started and ended on the shores of the lovely Lake Crescent. We’d driven by the lake several times on our trips between Port Angeles (where we were staying) and the park, and I was itching to get my feet onto its shores. First things first, though.
The trail to Marymere Falls starts with a little stone and corrugated tin tunnel. Did we all shout “Echo!” as we walked through this tunnel? If you really need to ask, you don’t know us at all.
Much of the Marymere Falls trail winds gently through the woods – can never get sick of those towering spruces – but eventually comes out on a wide stream, so we knew that we were on the right track.
A short climb to an observation platform and –
There she is!
Marymere was just as spectacular as Sol Duc Falls, but in a completely different way. The observation platform was situated about halfway up, so we could look up to see the falls’ inception in a narrow stream and watch as they got wider as they cascaded over mossy and lichened rocks. Totally magical.
We tore ourselves away reluctantly, the blow at leaving the falls sweetened by knowing that our next destination was Lake Crescent.
The Twilight movies (and I think the books?) are set on the Olympic Peninsula, in Forks – not far from Port Angeles and the park. (There was Edward and Bella merchandise everywhere.) I haven’t read the books, nor have I seen the movies, but I can see why the setting – the scenery out here is mystical and mysterious. Case in point: Lake Crescent. As we drove past the lake on our way to one hike or another, I spotted something large and black out of the corner of my eye. Figuring it was the wind on the waves, I thought nothing more of it until Steve said: “Was that Nessie?” Hmmmmmm. And that wasn’t the only thing. As we were driving along the shores of the lake, a black SUV drove by us in the opposite direction, with Steve’s kayak – a red Current Designs Solstice GT with a Canadian maple leaf decal – on the roof rack. We laughed and pointed it out. Then, two minutes later – another black SUV with Steve’s exact kayak on the roof rack, again heading in the opposite direction to us. Now that’s just too mysterious.
I mean, with scenery like this – you can understand the presence of the unexplainable.
As you can imagine, we were a little bit relieved to get back to civilization and the ONP visitors’ center in Port Angeles. The kids took their Junior Ranger oath of office.
It was almost time to end our weekend in the park – sadly, because there was so much more I wanted to see, although it’s always nice to leave something for next time. But I wasn’t ready to go before stepping foot on Hurricane Ridge. This was what I was most looking forward to doing all week – I had visions of a jaw-dropping stretch of Olympic Mountains, and fields of frolicking marmots.
It was not to be.
We had a foggy, white-knuckled drive up into the mountains, only to find Hurricane Ridge socked in with fog, the Olympics hidden behind a wall of clouds, and not a marmot in sight – clearly they were all tucked up in their nests, sleeping away the cold and wet weather (and who could blame them?).
Still absolutely beautiful in a windy, mysterious way – oh, and I almost forgot to mention, it started to snow, just flurries, while we were up there – and like I said, it’s good to leave something for next time. Because I will definitely be back to see those mountains and those marmots. And in the meantime, this view was pretty wonderful.
That ends our time in Olympic National Park – for now! I’ll definitely be making a trip back here. But we’re moving on, for the moment. Sad, because I’ve so enjoyed reliving this trip for you. Also happy, because this isn’t the end of travel posts – far from it; I have a lot more to come. Next week, off to Colorado! We spent Thanksgiving week with my brother and sister-in-law and they loaded us up with adventures, so there’s more travel fun ahead. Check in next week!
The Hoh Rainforest was the surprise of our trip to Olympic National Park. I knew it would be amazing, of course, but I was really interested in the coastline and the mountains. But it ended up being the rainforest that drew us in for most of our ONP hikes; it was just so magical.
Steve and I both independently decided that we really, really wanted to hike to Sol Duc Falls – a relatively short hike, and mostly flat until the very end, but with major bang for the buck in terms of scenery payoff. That’s really the name of the game when hiking with kids – or our kids, at least – keep it short and pretty flat – so we’ve gotten good at finding the hikes that meet those criteria but also pack a punch and feel special.
As with all of the trails we experienced in Olympic, the pathways were groomed and easy to walk, and there was a riot of things to look at all around us.
From the very, very big – towering Sitka spruces…
To the tiny details of fruits and fungus.
We walked past a few streams that picked up power and energy as we got closer to our destination.
And finally (after only one detour to get lost briefly) we made it to the falls. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.
Roaring!
We were all impressed by the four side-by-side cascading falls and the powerful spray. So, so gorgeous!
Next week: wrapping up our time in Olympic with another waterfall, a lake, AND Hurricane Ridge all socked in with fog.
As we were getting ready to leave the Hoh Rainforest, we ran into another hiker loitering outside of the visitors’ center. She told us that she had just come from the Sol Duc Salmon Cascades and the salmon were jumping. That was all we needed to hear to add a stop onto our return drive to Port Angeles.
Just off the main road through the rainforest is a quick little dirt trail down to a viewing platform over a roiling section of the Sol Duc River. Our new friend told us that there weren’t many salmon – maybe one leap every minute or so – but if we were patient, we’d see them.
And we did.
It was truly incredible. I was vaguely aware of the salmon run (I thought I’d seen the sign, but not really registered it, on our way into the rainforest) but never really thought I’d actually find myself leaning over a wooden railing, watching coho salmon fly through the air on their way up a waterfall.
I mean. Really.
It was definitely one of the most memorable experiences of my life.
Next week: hiking to the spectacular Sol Duc Falls.
After the Hall of Mosses hike, we put our heads together and decided that we had time for a second hike – and we weren’t ready to leave the Hoh Rainforest. I plumped for the famous Hoh River Trail, but was outvoted three to one in favor of the shorter and easier (but tbh, no less spectacular) Spruce Nature Trail.
We decided we’d walk as far as the Hoh River, so we could see it, and then make our way back to the warmth of the car (and a long drive back to Port Angeles).
All over the rainforest, we saw these trees on elevated roots – looking like they were standing on stilts. The trees took root initially on fallen logs – called nurse logs – and when the nurse logs rotted away the new growth was left standing on tiptoe. Weird!
The Spruce Nature Trail boasted its share of moss-hung trees, too – and other cool sights. Like this uprooted tree:
WOWSERS.
I was fascinated by the knotty bark. With all of the fascinating things to see and observe, it felt like no time at all before we reached the banks of the Hoh River.
With all the mist, the visibility was a bit limited – but it really didn’t matter. It was mysterious and quiet – and just beautiful.
When we got back to the car, we had our biggest wildlife sighting of the day – right off the parking lot! – a mother black-tailed deer and her two fawns.
Too cute!
We watched them quietly and from a safe distance until they decided they were done foraging, and ambled off to surprise some other lucky park visitors. Definitely a magical end to our afternoon in the Hoh Rainforest!
Next week: stopping by the Sol Duc River for some fishing – wink, wink.
After our morning at Ruby Beach, we headed for something completely different – Hoh Rainforest, park ecosystem #2. We were all a bit damp – okay, drenched – after the coastline, so I think the idea of walking under a rain-breaking canopy of trees was appealing to everyone.
Hoh Rainforest is one of the largest temperate rainforests in the United States. The landscape was carved by glaciers, and it’s a completely different world from the coastline we had just left.
Our destination was the Hall of Mosses trail. If I’m being completely honest, I’ll tell you that we picked the trail based – pretty much – on the name alone. I mean, how could we pass up a trail called “Hall of Mosses” – could you? It helped that our cursory research confirmed the trail’s kid-friendliness; it’s short, relatively flat, and steeped with interesting things to look at.
My favorite thing about the trail was, predictably, the old-growth trees hung with primeval quantities of emerald green moss.
I know that Longfellow’s famous line “This is the forest primeval” was written about eastern Canada – but it could easily have been about this spot.
We veered off the main trail onto a little spur that took us into a magical grove of maples overhung with club moss.
Nugget liked the maple grove.
The other day, Nugget asked me what my favorite hike is. I couldn’t possibly decide – I’ve been privileged to experience so many incredible trails, in habitats ranging from coastlines to deserts to mountains to forests – and everything in between. But the Hall of Mosses trail would have to be up there. There was just so much to look at – from the largest moss-hung trees…
…to the tiniest details of mushrooms, moss, and tiny leaves.
The Hall of Mosses trail was short, but packed so much into a fascinating space. I’d love to go back – again and again. I’m sure it must change every day.
Next week: Still in the Hoh Rainforest, we explore another trail and amble down to the Hoh River.
When I decided to bring my family with me on my October business trip to Seattle, I began researching ideas for the following weekend right away. There are so many incredible destinations in Washington State, but I knew I wanted something within fairly easy reach of Seattle. A repeat trip to the San Juan Islands was out, because the San Juan Clipper season ended the week before we were scheduled to arrive, and the ferry had been unreliable due to COVID-related staffing shortages. So I hopped on a call with a colleague (who loves planning vacations for people) to discuss options. I told her I wanted something outdoorsy, within a couple of hours of Seattle. We kicked around Leavenworth, Bainbridge Island, Mount Rainier, and even driving as far as North Cascades, but ultimately settled on Olympic National Park.
Any travel book or tour guide would tell you that one of the things that makes Olympic special is that it’s really three parks in one. There’s the rugged Pacific coastline, the hauntingly beautiful Hoh Rainforest, and the Alpine expanses of the mountain section. With my colleague’s help, I planned a packed weekend that would allow us to experience all three.
The coastline was first – I was so stoked to show the kids the wonders of Washington tidepooling. As it happened, time was not on our side – low tide was at about 5:00 a.m., and the closest beaches (Ruby and Kalaloch) were almost a two hour drive from our hotel in Port Angeles. Tidepooling would have to wait for a future trip, but we still had plenty of visual treats in the pounding waves and towering sea stacks. We made for Ruby Beach, keeping Kalaloch in reserve if time and weather allowed.
There’s something so wild and compelling about rain at the beach, isn’t there?
It was wet and cold, but we layered up and kept our feet moving, and it was totally worth it. I wouldn’t have missed Ruby Beach for the world.
Wet but happy family! A little rain won’t get in the way of our beach day.
We started out walking up the coastline, but the tide rushed in and cut off our path, so we turned and headed in the opposite direction, exploring as far as we could.
Although I would have loved to tidepool with the anklebiters, Ruby Beach was well worth the drive even without tidepooling – the trees, dramatic sea stacks, and crashing surf were spectacular. Someday we’ll make it back when the tide tables are our friends, and it’s not the worst thing in the world to have something to look forward to!
Next week: a truly magical walk through the Hoh Rainforest.
Sunday morning of our family Seattle weekend dawned grey as well – although, read on, it did clear up later in the day. We made it our mission to show the kids some of Seattle’s highlights – starting with Pike Place and the famous gum wall.
Nugget was impressed by the trick fish (it jumped at us and I nearly flew out of my skin, much to his delight) but the gum wall blew his mind.
We walked through an entire gum alley (I’d seen the gum wall before but somehow didn’t register just how expansive it is) on our way to…
The Seattle Aquarium – one of my favorite spots! The kids are used to the much larger National Aquarium in Baltimore, but what Seattle lacks in size it makes up in fabulous exhibits – especially the famous sea otters.
So stinking cute. I cannot.
Peanut is an otter enthusiast, so she was especially into it – but we all love otters, I mean, who doesn’t?
Nugget especially liked the massive industrial style fish tank. Super, super cool.
And the harbor seals – so adorable.
After the aquarium, we were looking around for ways to kill some time down by the water, and Nugget asked for a ride on Seattle’s Great Wheel. I was immediately into it – I’d wanted to check out the Great Wheel the last time I was in Seattle, but Steve (who doesn’t care for heights) didn’t want to do it. Steve and Peanut declined this time, too, so my adventure buddy and I rode the Great Wheel as a duo.
It was so much fun, and the views of Puget Sound, Alaskan Way, and downtown Seattle were gorgeous.
These views were pretty epic, but we also knew that we had even more incredible views ahead of us – because we had SPACE NEEDLE TICKETS for the afternoon.
Touristy? Okay, maybe. Ask me if I mind.
We rode the elevator alllllll the way up and – whew! I love heights, and even I was a little weak in the knees. That’s a long way down.
Zoiks! But, if you look out and not down – those views. I mean, really.
The Seattle skyline – amazing. I spotted my office.
Gorgeous Lake Union. One of these days I need to get out on that water.
We walked around, and around, and around, taking in the views from every angle – mountains in one direction, Puget Sound in another, all breathtaking. I could have stayed up there all day!
It was a full, active, on-the-go kind of weekend, and set me up for a busy workweek. And what a gift it was to have Steve and the kids join me on this trip!
Next week: after wrapping up my workweek, we hit the road for an incredible National Park weekend.
Over the summer, my team started discussing the possibility of getting together for a week of working in the same place – and some meetings and workshops to take advantage of the opportunity. It was a great idea, and I was super into it, but when the dates were announced it happened to fall over my birthday week. Rather than ring in a new year alone in a hotel room, I brought my celebration crew with me to Seattle. (It’s nice to work for the coolest team leader in the company.) My meetings started on Monday, but we flew in early on Saturday morning to enjoy a weekend of Seattle sightseeing together. First stop – the Seattle library.
Most of the library was still closed off to casual visitors due to COVID, but we were able to take in the massive windows – too, too cool.
The kids needed some down time, so our next stop was the spectacular children’s section.
They loved wandering the stacks, and they both picked out a few books to crash with on the comfy couches.
They probably spent a good hour – or more – reading their way through their piles, and then they asked if they could check books out. Sorry, kids, we don’t live in Seattle. (I need to take them to the library back at home. One of these days.)
Still looking for indoor activities (it was COLD, and wet) we hit upon the Seattle Art Museum and its “Monet at Etretat” exhibition. I love all things Monet and a curated exhibit was enticing.
Gorgeous! The colors and the play of light on canvas – I can never get enough.
After slowly working our way through the Monet exhibit, we wandered the rest of the gallery, taking in the eclectic mix of art from several centuries.
Beautiful! We loved the Seattle Art Museum – even the kids enjoyed themselves (and it was rather a lot to ask after a day of travel).
Next week: day two of our family weekend in Seattle, and we get quite a skyline view.
covered in flour 