After our exciting morning at Neko Harbour – first an absolutely stunning paddle, followed by a mainland landing and penguin-watching – we headed for another breathtaking Antarctic location: Paradise Bay. Although the cloud cover that had descended just as we were landing at Neko stayed around all afternoon, there was no wind and the ocean conditions were good, so kayaking was a go. Yay! We launched from Big Bertha as usual and I was immediately wowed by the incredible mountains all around us.

One of the things the trip photographer had told us was that the icebergs seem to glow from within when the skies are moody. It was definitely true.

Paradise Bay promised some fun sights. First, we paddled by Base Brown – formerly a British outpost that is now in the hands of the Argentinians, it has an interesting history. As we’d learned in one of the history lectures we attended to pass the time while crossing the Drake, Base Brown was burned down by a doctor who was over-wintering there when it was still a British base – apparently he couldn’t handle the darkness and loneliness. Over-wintering in Antarctica is definitely not for everyone.

We paddled right under the sea cliffs on which Base Brown perches and I tossed off a comment to Steve, over my shoulder, about “that crazy doctor.” One of our kayaking buddies, who happens to be a doctor – a psychiatrist, actually – was paddling by just as I made the remark, and shouted over: “What? You mean me?” Nope! The other crazy doctor! Just keep paddling, nothing to see here.

The penguins seemed comfortable enough at Base Brown.

After we had a chance to check out the scene, our lead kayak guide YT beckoned to us to follow him over to a big nesting colony of Antarctic cormorants.

The cormorants were perched all over a massive sea cliff – it was a really impressive sight. And they had two chicks!

We spent awhile bobbing around under the sea cliffs watching the cormorants. Steve and I joked that Antarctic cormorants must be better at flying than other cormorants, or maybe they climbed up there. We love to rag on cormorants. Who doesn’t?

There were a couple of solitary penguins too.

After Base Brown and the cormorants, we paddled around a bit more looking at the stunning scenery. Paradise Bay was well-named, indeed.

Ahhhhh – too beautiful. Before any of us were ready to say goodbye, it was time to load up Big Bertha and head back to the ship to warm up. One by one, we clambered out of our kayaks and into the zodiac while guides Jess and YT bobbed in their red kayaks offering helping hands. As we settled into Big Bertha, with just the guides to follow, we heard a theatrical shout from YT, and then a splash. A similarly dramatic scream from Jess, and another splash.

Mark, our zodiac driver, immediately ordered us all onto one side of the zodiac. Thinking he was going to capsize us next, one of the group said “Mmm-mmm!” and immediately adjusted her wool hat. But Mark didn’t capsize Big Bertha, and the guides had not simultaneously lost their minds. It turned out this was a rescue drill for Mark, which – as the kayak group’s safety zodiac driver – he is required to complete once a season. He never knows when the guides will intentionally capsize themselves, so he has to be ready at all times to make a rescue.

Working as a team to help Mark, we hauled Jess and YT back into the zodiac, where they sat on the floor looking cold and drenched. Definitely time to go back to the ship and warm up – or was it?

As we steamed towards the Ocean Diamond, we caught sight of something exciting off in the distance – a black back in the water! Mark asked YT and Jess if they were good to stay out for just a bit longer. They confirmed they were warm enough, and we zoomed off to have a look at a whale.

We got a bit closer, then killed the engines and watched our new friend diving and surfacing. This was a quite young juvenile – not quite a calf, but young enough that we were surprised he was on his own. Hopefully he was just having a little explore and wasn’t separated from Mom.

What a lovely way to cap off a fun and engaging paddle! First Base Brown, then cormorants, then guides in the water, and now a playful humpback whale!

Thank you, Antarctica, for delivering treasured memories once again.

Next week: more penguins in one of their favorite spots – Danco Island!