We’ve trimmed our holiday traditions down considerably in recent years – a nod to COVID-induced realities, sadly, but also a reflection of the current (overwhelmed) state of life. But there are a few traditions in the run-up to Christmas that are just non-negotiable; I’m not willing to give them up, and I will move heaven and earth to make them happen. A visit to Aladdin, the Mount Vernon Christmas camel, is one of them (although Aladdin is around until Twelfth Night, and it’s acceptable to visit him after Christmas, if necessary) and a walk through Old Town, our former neighborhood, to admire the decorations. This year, we combined the two into one thoroughly Alexandrian day.

Starting with Mount Vernon. It was a grey day – not too cold, but damp – and a walk felt good. By the way, if you’re thinking the coloration of the Mansion looks different, it is. The property has gone back to the traditional buff color, removing the historically-inaccurate crisp white exterior. This sandy hue is what it actually looked like in Washington’s day.

There he is! It’s tradition for Mount Vernon to host a camel for Christmas, because Washington used to procure one as a holiday treat for his stepchildren and grandchildren. Aladdin has been a regular visitor for the last fourteen Christmases now and we’ve visited him almost every year, including his first year as the Christmas Camel – when he was just a baby.

He’s so stinking cute. I cannot.

Obviously, Aladdin isn’t the only animal on property. After paying our respects to him, we wandered off in search of other friends. I have never seen so many sheep here before. There must have been twenty of them! Seriously. Where did they all come from?

We walked around the rest of the outdoor attractions, too. Peanut loved stopping by each of the outbuildings to read the explanatory placard – there was much lecturing when Nugget and I failed to keep pace; I had sock problems, and to be honest, we were more interested in the garden.

It might be the fact that I had spent several days reading Nigel Slater’s poetic ode to winter, The Christmas Chronicles, but I was enchanted by the bare architecture of the kitchen garden in winter.

And I’m always inspired by the espaliered fruit trees. I have delusions of gardening grandeur (when we buy the forever house!) involving lots of fruit trees. Sometimes my dreams involve a glorious tangle of gnarled apple trees and a blackberry bramble, but other times I picture espaliered fruit. I guess it’ll have to wait for the as-yet-fuzzy forever house and garden to take shape, before I’ll really know.

Red, green, and purple. Christmas!

After wandering almost the whole Mount Vernon property (we missed the upper flower garden, but Peanut was done with Nugget and me and our Monty Don delusions) we headed to our old stomping ground – Old Town Alexandria.

The residents of Old Town go all in on Christmas decorations, but because it’s such a historic neighborhood, by tacit agreement they do it in a very traditional, understated way. Lots of swags of fresh greenery, tartan ribbons, and fresh and dried fruit – no inflatables or loud colored lights. (Which have their place, but would look alarming on these pre-Revolutionary streets, let’s be honest.)

No baby yet. Check back in a few weeks. (Pssst – this creche is in front of St. Mary’s Basilica, which we just learned was the very first Catholic church in Virginia. Yay, history!)

Wreaths of Old Town, 2021, here we come. I think this door – one of the first we walked past – might have been my favorite.

But I loved this one, too – simple, but gorgeously effective.

Another favorite – a wreath made entirely of oyster shells is a stunning nod to coastal Virginia. Also, I love a wooden door! Over the years, I’ve gotten fonder of the natural wood look. This made me think of the entrance to the Nantucket pub that features in the first few chapters of Moby Dick, where Ishmael and Queequeg meet.

Another favorite – understated, but perfect with the exposed brick and gold stars.

No visit to Old Town is complete without walking by the Spite House. This tiny row house is barely more than six feet in width.

More dried fruit! I love these traditional decorations.

Partway through our walk, we met up with friends – my law school BFF, her husband, and their two kids. In an instant, my kids switched from complaining about the forced march past very grownup door decor, to wild exhilaration at seeing their friends. Running, jumping, screeching and cackling ensued.

We all got a laugh when my friend’s husband leaned down to his son and urgently demanded, “Where are your parents?“

We walked, talked, snapped pictures and berated wild children for almost two hours – until the sun was gone, the lights were twinkling, and carolers were singing their way down King Street. As other traditions have dropped off one by one (there was no Christmas in Little Washington this year, no waterskiing Santa on the Potomac, no Scottish Walk, and no holiday trains at the National Botanic Gardens in D.C.) I’ve hung onto this one, which is simple, and free, but brings outsized holiday cheer.

What is your favorite holiday tradition?