
July 4th dawned sunny and beautiful, and we prepared to do battle with the raccoons of Jones Island. It being Independence Day, the Americans in the group were ready to celebrate! I wore my stars and stripes headband under my hat, and a fellow kayaker tied an American flag bandana to her bow – and we pushed back from Point Doughty ready to do battle for Old Glory against the raccoons.

The views of Turtleback Mountain were beautiful from the water. I shouted over my shoulder to Steve, “It’s Te Fiti!”

The paddle from Point Doughty to Jones Island was relatively short, but as we glided by the shorelines on the way we counted a total of seven bald eagles! We saw eagles almost every day, but the sightings never got old, and it felt especially appropriate to see so many of them on Independence Day. It reminded me of the first time I ever saw an eagle – Steve and I were visiting Mount Vernon, and as we walked behind the Mansion to look at the sweeping views of the Potomac, an eagle soared low overhead. It was as if the spirit of George Washington was looking down on us. So what I’m saying is – these eagles really seem to know how to choose their moments.

We stopped for a long lunch on a private island that allowed for public access to its bluffs. Most of the group spread out across the shoreline, looking out at the expansive views – always on dorsal watch.

After lunch, back in the boats, we cruised on over to Jones Island. As we hugged the shoreline preparing to land, we saw two large raccoons scamper over the rocks in the 2:00 p.m. sun, prompting yelps from several boats: “I thought they were nocturnal!” Clearly, these were no ordinary raccoons.


We landed on Jones Island, which was clearly a popular spot for Independence Day camping and cookouts, and quickly claimed a campsite near the water. We unpacked our gear and Ben solicited a vote from the group – would we rather go for a hike, or get back in the kayaks and explore the surrounding islands? We had one vote for a hike, but the rest of the gang (including Steve and me) cast our votes for the kayaks: still hoping we might see some Biggs killer whales in their prime hunting waters.

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the islands surrounding Jones – didn’t see any orcas, but there was plenty of other beautiful sights to keep us busy, and we hardly noticed that we’d paddled 17.5 nautical miles over the course of the day. Everyone was hungry when we got back to camp, so Ben quickly fired up the camp stove and started an “appetizer course” of grilled cheese sandwiches before moving on to our regularly planned dinner.

Side of sautéed bull kelp with soy sauce and a dash of sriracha. I tried some – pretty darn good. I balked at trying the rockweed, though.

Although we didn’t see orcas, the other wildlife on Jones was not so shy. No confirmed raccoon sightings after dark – there was some rustling near the tent, but no visual so I’m pretending it didn’t happen – but a black-tailed deer came into our campsite and stood within feet of us for several minutes. (We think it was the same deer that one of our group caught some fellow campers petting in a different campsite. Later in the evening I encountered a teenaged girl in line for the restrooms, who proudly recounted that the deer had followed her family around and they had pet and fed it. I read her the riot act. Don’t pet the wildlife, and definitely don’t feed them! They’re unpredictable wild animals and it’s dangerous for them to get too comfortable with humans.)

Home sweet home. Last night in the tent! I was already starting to miss this simple life.


As the sun went down on the Fourth of July, I think we were all feeling a bit nostalgic and sad about parting ways the next day. Our group really worked, and we are already feeling like old friends.
Next week: The Biggs say goodbye (sniff).