
Steve and I had a big adventure planned – five days of kayaking from island to island in the San Juans, but with almost two full days before we were scheduled to meet up with our paddling group, we had time to explore a little first. Friday Harbor is a postage stamp-sized town, but it packs a lot of scenery and fun into a small area.

As we walked from our B&B into the downtown area, I spotted a street sign reading “Granny’s Way.” I mused aloud to Steve, I wonder if that’s named for J-2. Sure enough, as we got closer to the intersection, I read the smaller words just above: In Honor of J-2. Steve laughed and told me I’d really found my people.
(For less whale-obsessed friends, J-2 Granny was an iconic orca and part of the southern resident ecotype. She was the matriarch of J-pod for many years before she passed away, at age 105, in 2016. Scientists are still speculating about whether any whale will ever be able to fill Granny’s place in the pod.)

We grabbed some coffee and checked out a big map of the islands – found Friday Harbor and speculated about which other islands we’d be visiting on our kayaking trip.

After a pick-me-up, we wandered the Friday Harbor marina. I practically grew up on the water – sailing and paddling in the Adirondacks and splashing in the ocean waters of New England and North Carolina – and I can’t get enough boats.


The water and the sky really were that vibrant. I never wanted to leave!

We found a little park with a totem arch – headed, of course, by the iconic blackfish.

I’d spotted a tiny beer bar right off the Clipper dock, and pointed it out to Steve – I knew he’d be into a visit. We sat and chilled at the bar, sipped PNW beers (IPA for Steve, sour for me) and toasted to our great adventure.


On Sunday morning, Steve suggested checking out the Whale Museum. After getting mail from them every month for years – they run the orca adoption program through which J-26 Mike, J-51 Nova, and L-119 Joy joined our family – I was totally into it.

A shrine to my loved ones!

HELLO BLACKFISH, I LOVE YOU.

Steve is definitely not a “dorca” like me, but after this trip he’s getting there. He thought the museum was fascinating. I welled up at pictures of Granny, Doublestuf, Sonic, Scarlet and other departed friends, and beautiful Tokitae who has suffered so long in captivity. Steve pretended he didn’t know the weird lady who was crying in the Whale Museum.

But, I mean, really! Look – a paper quilt in Granny’s honor, made by local grade schoolers:

I’M NOT CRYING YOU’RE CRYING

J-pod! Hello… Mike, Nova, Eclipse, Blackberry, Tsuchi, Talequah, Slick, Cookie – and you, too, Onyx. And baby J-56!

And Peanut’s loves in L-pod! Joy, Matia, Windsong, Magic, Mystery, Ocean Sun, baby L-124…

Friday Harbor! You totally captured our hearts, and we’re already wondering when we can get back for a return visit.
Next week, a historic lighthouse and the rocky coastline the islanders call “Whale Watch Park” – check in with me then!