Month: September 2009

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Classic Mashed Potatoes

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Is there anyone alive who doesn’t like mashed potatoes?  If so, I’d like to meet them.  I would have a lot of questions.  No, I’ve never encountered anyone who actively dislikes mashed potatoes.  I’ve encountered many diverse, and all equally passionately held, opinions about mashed potatoes, though… it seems that everyone holds strong preferences on this topic.  Do you like them lumpy or smooth? Skins on or off?  With cheese, buttermilk, yogurt, sour cream?  Do you add mix-ins?  What about herbs?  Do you process them in the mixer, or with a food mill, or with a potato ricer, or with a potato masher?

Here are my strongly-held opinions about mashed potatoes: I like them smooth, but with skins on (c’mon, you need some nutrients).  I don’t believe lumps have any place in a bowl of mashed potatoes.  For that reason, I use a stand mixer.  I just can’t commit to the time it takes to make potatoes as smooth as I like them with a potato masher, and hubby hates my potato ricer for some reason.  (If you do make smooth mashed potatoes with a masher, God bless you.  I have so much respect for you!)  I like mine with buttermilk or yogurt, and I like to add chives.  That’s my classic formula, but I’m not afraid to mix it up, either… mashed potatoes can handle it.

Do you disagree with my opinions about mashed potatoes?  Good!  There’s nothing like a potato debate.  Bottom line, the thing about mashed potatoes is this: every cook should know how to make them.  Every cook should have a preferred recipe.  And every cook should deviate from that recipe routinely.  It’s the only way to give the humble potato the respect it deserves, but will never ask for.

Classic Mashed Potatoes

1 pound potatoes (Yukon Gold or red new potatoes are great), scrubbed and large-diced
1/4 cup buttermilk (or regular milk, or milk and yogurt…)
1 heaping tablespoon light sour cream
kosher salt
fresh black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped chives (or scallions)

  • Bring a large pot of water to a hard boil and salt generously with kosher salt.  Add large-diced potatoes and boil hard for approximately 20 minutes, or until potatoes are fork tender.
  • Drain potatoes and add them to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the beater attachment.  Begin beating at a low speed, gradually bringing the speed up (every 10-15 seconds or so) to the maximum.  Beat on maximum speed for approximately one minute – but keep an eye on the potatoes.  You don’t want them to get gluey!  If necessary, stop the mixer occasionally to scrape down the sides. (Or, alternatively, process through a food mill or potato ricer into a heat-resistant bowl, or return them to the pot and take out your frustrations on them with a potato masher.)
  • With the mixer running on low (or with your trusty wooden spoon) stir in the liquid(s) and the chives.  Season to taste with salt and pepper.  (Remember, you salted the cooking water, so the potatoes are somewhat seasoned already.  It’s important to taste before adding any additional salt, to make sure you don’t over-do it.)  If desired, mix in any additional herbs, sliced scallions, bacon bits, cheese… whatever your little heart desires!  Go nuts!

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Source: Mixer method adapted from KitchenAid mixer instructions; recipe Covered In Flour

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Roasted Shrimp Salad

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I think I have a problem.  My blogging friends are welcoming September and baking with apples… and I am not ready to let go of summer.  Usually I’m the first one to hop on the autumn bandwagon.  Fall has always been my favorite season…  I love apple-picking, foliage, Hallowe’en, the crisp air and blue skies, fall hikes, pumpkins, turkey, the beginning of hockey season… but I’m just not there yet.  I’m still thinking backyard barbeques, sailing, berry picking, beach days… and salad.  I’m still very much in salad mode.

For Labor Day weekend, hubby and I went home to spend the holiday with my family up in the Adirondacks.  On Sunday my dad and I kayaked Lake Placid, just the two of us, but on Saturday the whole family was celebrating at my parents’ lake house – my aunts, uncles, cousins, grandparents, and my parents’ close friends, who I’ve mentioned before.  Like I said, they are practically my second set of parents; they’ve known me since before I was born.  My mom’s friend Denise, though, is more than just a second mom to me – she is my cooking inspiration.  An incredibly talented gourmet, she is constantly whipping up fabulous treats and making it look easy.  When my parents and their friends visited for Easter a few years ago, it was her opinion that mattered to me more than any other opinion about the dinner I cooked (fortunately, she loved it).  Denise brought the hors d’ouvres to the lake this weekend, which meant we were in for some serious deliciousness.  One of her dishes was a very creative roasted shrimp cocktail with a homemade thousand-island sauce… and it was amazing.  (No surprise there.)  She inspired me to try roasting shrimp, which is something that has been on my list for awhile.  The result was this salad – cool and crisp from the greens and the cucumbers, yet warm and sweet from the shrimp, all at the same time.  It hit the spot, even on a chilly, rainy September day.  No, I’m not ready to give up on summer yet.  I’ve got a few more roasted shrimp salads in me before then.

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Roasted Shrimp Salad

1/2 pound raw shrimp, shelled
extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt and fresh black pepper
2 cups (approx.) salad greens
1/3 cucumber, quartered and chopped
croutons (optional)

  • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.  Lay the shrimp out on a foil-lined baking sheet, and season with extra-virgin olive oil, sea salt (I like Maldon; you could use kosher salt but I think that sea salt really does make a difference here) and black pepper.  Roast shrimp for 5-8 minutes (depending on their size), until just pink.
  • While the shrimp are roasting, assemble the rest of the salad: lay out greens on two plates and scatter cucumber slices over salads.
  • Remove shrimp from the oven and squeeze the juice of half a lemon over them, making sure to hit them all.  Divide the shrimp between the salads, dress (hubby went for just olive oil, I had my favorite Green Goddess dressing) and serve.

Yield: Serves 2.

Source: Covered In Flour, inspired by messybaker’s mom’s fabulous friend Denise.

Wine Pairing: As hubby and I continue our quest to finish all of our wines (ha!) before our trip to Napa, we drank a 2006 Finger Lakes Riesling with this dinner.  The mellow sweetness of Riesling was a good complement to the mellow sweetness of shrimp.  I’d also recommend my quintessential summer wines – Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or Australia, or a French Rose – as excellent with seafood.

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Orzo with Sausage, Peppers and Tomatoes

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This dish encompasses some of my very favorite things: adorable pastina, chicken sausage, and peppers.  It’s also easy… ridiculously easy.  You just start browning the sausage at the same time as you put the orzo’s water on to boil, and by the time the orzo is done, you have your sauce ready to go.  It doesn’t get much simpler than that, and the flavors are unbelievable, with sweet, crisp-tender peppers, tart fresh cherry tomatoes, and spiced sausage bits in every bite.

Orzo with Sausage, Peppers and Tomatoes

1/4 box orzo
1 package fresh sausage (I used garlic and tomato chicken sausage)
2 peppers, cut into strips
1/2 package cherry tomatoes, halved or quartered (depending on size)
salt and pepper

  • Start water to boil for the orzo.  When water is boiling, season with kosher salt, add orzo and cook according to the package directions.
  • Meanwhile, begin browning the sausage in a nonstick pan.  If the sausage is still in its casing, squeeze it out so that it is in a mass in the pan.  Break it up with a wooden spoon and distribute it so it browns in small chunks.
  • While the sausage is browning, cut the peppers into strips and prepare the cherry tomatoes.  After the sausage has made some good progress, add the peppers and tomatoes and stir to distribute them.  Continue to cook the sausage, peppers and tomatoes together, keeping a careful eye on the orzo.
  • When the orzo finishes cooking, drain it and add it to the pan with the sausage and vegetables.  Mix together and serve.

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Yield: Serves two or three for a main course, four to six as a side.

Source: Adapted from Giada’s Kitchen, by Giada de Laurentiis

Note: The original recipe actually called for roasted red peppers in a jar, cut into strips.  This is usually a standard pantry item for me, so I didn’t even give it a second thought when I made my grocery list and it turned out that when I went to look for them in my pantry or fridge, I was out – who’d have thought?  Instead, I used sweet Hungarian peppers from my farmer’s market.  However, I think this recipe would work equally well with sauteed red, orange and/or yellow bell peppers, or with roasted red peppers from a jar.

Wine Pairing: Hubby and I are trying to work through the bulk of our wines these days, because we are preparing for a trip to Napa in about a week and a half, and we’re going to be bringing quite a bit home!  For this dinner, we poured Pinot Grigio from Doukenie Winery in Purcellville, Virginia.  Doukenie is our favorite winery in the region – we are actually members of the wine club there, which requires simply that we buy twelve bottles per year (easy; their wines are delicious).  Pinot Grigio is normally not my choice.  I once received a bottle as a gift and it had oxidized.  Ever since then, I have been turned off by Pinot Grigio and will almost always choose Sauvignon Blanc or a more obscure white instead.  But Doukenie’s PG is very nice, crisp and yet smooth, with mellow fruit aromas.  It’s making headway toward changing my mind about Pinot Grigio, and I think it worked well with this dish.  I’d also recommend a northern Italian white, or a lighter-bodied Italian red such as Barbera d’Asti.  If you substitute pork sausage for the chicken or turkey, you could pair it with Chianti and it would be delightful.  Enjoy!

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Tomatillo Chicken with Black Beans

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The addition of black beans to a recipe for tomatillo chicken was complete serendipity.  True to form, I planned to serve the tomatillo chicken over brown rice and then forgot to actually make the brown rice.  (I think this is my subconscious self reminding me that I think brown rice is a huge, ever-lovin’ hassle.)  The tomatillo chicken, in and of itself, was not going to be enough for dinner – especially not with my hubby in the house – so in an effort to quickly fill out the dish I popped open a can of black beans and tossed them in.  They added a wonderful creamy texture and, happily, more protein without much fat.  (Not that the dish was hurting for protein…)  I’d still recommend serving this over brown rice if you can remember it – I can’t – and if you did, this dish could stretch to a main course for 4 instead of just 2.

Tomatillo Chicken with Black Beans

4-6 boneless, skinless chicken thigh pieces
1/2 white onion or 1 whole large shallot, diced
1 poblano pepper, diced
8 tomatillos (approx), husks removed
kosher salt
ancho chili powder
1 can black beans, drained and rinsed

  • In a medium Dutch oven over medium-high heat, warm a glug of vegetable oil until shimmering.  Season the chicken thigh pieces and lay them in the oil to brown, turning over once.  When the chicken thigh pieces are browned, remove them to a plate.
  • Meanwhile, whir the tomatillos in a food processor until pureed.  Reserve for later.
  • Add the onion and poblano pepper to the oil, season with kosher salt and cook until softened and slightly caramelized.  Pour the tomatillo sauce into the pot and stir around to coat the peppers and onions.
  • Return the chicken to the pot, nestling each piece into the tomatillo sauce and turning to coat.  Cover the pot and simmer on medium-low heat for 20-25 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through.  (How long you cook this will depend on how thick your chicken pieces are.  If you use bone-in thighs or breasts, adjust the cooking time accordingly.)
  • Drain and rinse the black beans.  Add them to the pot and stir everything together.  Continue to simmer until the beans are warmed through.  Season with more ancho chili powder if necessary and serve, alone or over brown rice.

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Source: Adapted from Everyday Food, September 2009

Note: As you can probably tell from the references to poblano pepper and ancho chili powder, I like warmth but not a four-alarm fire on my dinner plate.  Feel free to play with the heat-adding elements in this dish, substituting a couple of jalepenos for the poblano, for example, if you want something spicier.  My palate is simply not made to tolerate really hard-core chili action, but if yours is, by all means, go nuts.